Is this normal? FAQ

Here is a list of answers to the most common questions that we get from you. You can also visit our Wiki for product manuals and additional useful information. If you are not able to find the answer you are looking for in the list below please visit the Contacts.

• The stabilizers on my keyboard rattle

  Yes, such a problem indeed exists. This distinct rattling of the stabilizer when a key is not fully pressed is called "Rattling." The solution depends on the cause:

  1. The problem may arise due to the keycap
  If you reverse the spacebar and the rattling shifts to the other side, it's the first sign that you should change the keycap. Excessive curvature of the plastic affects the trajectory of the stems (guides in the stabilizer) and, consequently, the metal bracket. The latter, in turn, can hit the plastic and produce an unpleasant sound. If the keycap is made of thin ABS plastic, the sound will be even stronger. Buy a new keycap set and try working with a different spacebar.
  2. The problem may arise due to the stabilizers
  Yes, cheap stabilizers can rattle only in the way. For example, Vortex uses fairly average stabilizers, so we always recommend replacing and lubricating them.
  3. The problem of rattling may arise from a combination of several factors, synergistically amplifying the hellish sound and rumble
  There are mods that improve life, and one of them is the anti-rattling mod. We can do it upon your request and after consultation with our specialist since the mod may make the pressing more "muffled" on some stabilizers.
  4. The noise of the stabilizers may depend on the degree of lubricant wear
  In other words, such an effect may occur over time. Again, replacing the stabilizers or quality lubrication solves the issue.
  5. Costar stabilizers, due to their structural features, rattle on their own

• There is a noticeable spring pinging noise on my keyboard

  Yes, this is a design feature of any mechanical keyboard. This sound, caused by the spring, can be heard on the upstroke of the switch. Regardless of the manufacturer, such a ringing sound can be present in any switch.

  1. Why do only 5, 10, or 30 switches ring, while the others are fine? This is because:
  • There is a spring inside the switch. The spring is not lubricated. By default, springs produce sounds as a mechanism, similar to clocks or cars, for example.
  • Not all springs produce a loud sound; it depends on their position, slight manufacturing errors, wear, and many other factors. The fact is that almost all springs will eventually start to make a loud pinging noise sooner or later.
  • The switch manufacturer does not consider these problems as defects for the same reason, just as they do not consider gritty keystrokes as defects
  2. There are four effective options to make things better:
  • Lubricate the switches, which overall significantly enhances the comfort of using the keyboard. The sound becomes more refined, typing feels smoother and more pleasant. Springs are also lubricated, so pinging, squeaking, and other noises are minimized. You can order lubrication from us or, what is more interesting, do it yourself (you'll need a soldering iron, brush, lube, and 5-9 hours).
  • Put dampening foam/sound absorbing pad. Leopold does this at the factory, but some cases are too compact for such modification. Overall, extraneous noises will be reduced, but it's hard to call this method highly effective.
  • Get used to this bit of old-school mechanical charm.
  • Change the switches. This is the worst option as any switch may start ringing over time. Moreover, it's almost impossible to find switches without ringing :(

• Why is there no ringing sound in the YouTube video?

  Because in order to record a good typing sound without parasitic noises and sounds, post-processing is often done. Also, if you type softly, you can achieve a sound that will differ from reality in one way or another. Here's an example of a sound we recorded without using any processing:

• Long keys on my keyboard are loose

  This is quite normal for stabilizers.

  If you remove any key that has stabilizers underneath it (such as the spacebar, Shift, Enter, or Backspace), you can see that the stems inside it have some extra space between them and the housing. Shift is the most problematic key, since the distance between its stabilizers is the same as in smaller keys, but the keycap itself is longer.

• Long keys may become tilted when pressed on one side

  This is very common, as the main point of support for the keycap is located in the center — on the switch stem. The stabilizers support the keycap with normal force, but do not provide adequate lateral support when pressed heavily from the side — this is due to the peculiarities of their design and, as a result, simple laws of physics, which can be observed on a seesaw for two. If the point of support is located in the center, then when the left side goes down, the right side goes up, and when the right side goes down, the left side goes up. It's just like in childhood :3

• The switches on my keyboard sound different in different places

  A certain unevenness in sound transmission is due to the fact that the stiffness of the case may vary in different places. For example, we have a part of a plastic case above the arrow keys, but not between regular letters.

  In addition, there are screws inside the case that hold the structure together. The stiffness is higher at these attachment points, and therefore the sound may spread differently.

  

  The image shows two types of casing attachment - to illustrate how and why sound can resonate. For example, the outer switch pressed in the left construction can have a negative effect on the PCB and Plate, while the one located in the center near the support point can produce a more muffled and shorter sound.

• Why do the same switches sound different on different keyboards?

  The reason is quite simple. The type of mounting of the case, the soundproofing, the material of the case — absolutely everything affects the final sound.

  A thick metal case, for example, will have little resonance and the final sound will be thicker and more refined. Pressing a switch in a lightweight wooden case will have a resonant and booming sound. The sound differs just as much as the sound of your finger hitting a different surface!

• My keyboard squeaks if you press on the plastic — it makes a sound

  This can occur due to the fact that keyboard cases are mostly made of plastic. Yes, it can produce noise, and there's no escaping it, but manufacturers are trying to minimize it even in this case. Leopold, for example, puts a sound absorbing pad over the arrows, where the case has rather thin plastic.

• There is not some button/Numpad etc. on my keyboard

  It's true that not all keyboards have two Win keys or a Numpad, which can make your work less comfortable. It is certainly better to consider all your work scenarios, required keys and functions in advance and choose your keyboard based on this. But if the problem already requires a solution, there is the following method:

  Some keyboards allow you to configure macros and change key assignments "out of the box"; you can always use forbidden magic.

  For example, your Leopold doesn't have a right Win key. By default, the keyboard allows you to have only one Win key through DIP, either right or left. There is a way to bypass this nuance.

  You can reassign keys using magic outside of Hogwarts. To do this, you need to download the KeyTweak program. Follow these instructions:

  1. Install KeyTweak
  2. Launch KeyTweak
  3. Choose the key you will turn into the right Win key (let it be the Menu key to the right of Fn) in the program, and using Remap Key, assign the Right Win function to it
  4. Click "Yes," the computer will restart, and after that, everything will be ready, and you can use the Win key with the Menu button.

  Using the same method on a TKL keyboard, you can reassign a row of numbers with Num keys and type ASCII codes!

• I have a warped spacebar and some traces on the keycaps. And there's even a burr on the sides at the bottom!

  This is normal, as it is related to the peculiarities of production, and there is nothing to worry about. A slightly bent or slightly convex spacebar is not considered a defect, as minor warping may occur during plastic molding due to high temperatures. This issue can be easily fixed by yourself at home by dipping the spacebar in boiling water for a short time and then straightening it on a flat surface, as shown in the video below. However, if the issue is not a minor defect but an obvious one, we, of course, will not leave you in trouble!

  As for the traces on the keycaps, the velvety/rough plastic coating will be flawless only if you have just taken your keyboard or keycap set out of the box (and even then, not in all cases). Over time, it wears off or gets damaged naturally, making the traces visible from certain angles. However, such a coating feels nicer to the touch :3

  On smooth coatings, this issue is much more noticeable (especially on black keys) and is usually present on many new keyboards right from the factory. This is not a defect but merely a characteristic of PBT plastic, and there is nothing that can be done about it.

  

  Well, as for the burrs, it's enough to just look at the manufacturing process. Plastic keycaps are molded from a press, which sometimes results in such a side effect.

  

• I ripped out the stem when I removed the keycap from the Cherry MX Clear, what can I do?

  Well, the keycap on Cherry MX Clear sits very tight, so when removing it, there is indeed a chance of pulling out the stem. Sad but true. There are three options to solve this problem:

  1. Don't touch the keycap
  2. Remove the keycap very carefully
  3. Bring it to us, and we will help you remove the difficult keycaps

  If the mishap has already happened and you've pulled out the stem, you can either bring the keyboard to us or try to reinsert it yourself, following the actions shown in this video: